Wednesday, June 10, 2026

Rice Cheese: It needs more cheese

I couldn't argue with cheese and rice.

Rice Cheese
3 cups cooked rice
½ cup shredded cheese
1 cup tomato puree (fresh or canned)*
1 teaspoon melted butter
Salt, black Pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

Heat oven to 325°. Grease a medium-sized casserole dish.
Mix all ingredients. Place in casserole dish. If the rice is dry (or if it's right on the edge of being too dry), pour a little water over it.
Cover with a lid (or with foil if your baking dish doesn't have a lid) and bake for around 20 minutes.

Note: This didn't mind baking at 350°, so you can put it in the oven next to other things baking at that temperature.

*In a pinch, you can put canned tomatoes in a blender.

"In the Kitchen," The Southern Districts Advocate; Katanning, Western Australia; July 8, 1935; page 3

This recipe uses a lot more rice than I expected. I had initially thought it is supposed to creatively refresh leftover rice (because cheese solves everything). But as far as I know, few people cook enough rice to have nearly a quart of it left over. Obviously, we cut the recipe down a lot. 

RICE CHEESE. 
Boil 1 cup rice for 20 minutes in boiling water, drain and mix with half cup grated cheese, one cup tomato sauce, one teaspoonful butter. Add pepper, salt, and a little cayenne, put in a piedish and cook in a slow oven for 10 to 15 minutes.
"In the Kitchen," The Southern Districts Advocate; Katanning, Western Australia; July 8, 1935

It seems that people used to boil and drain rice like spaghetti, sometimes adding an extra step where you return the rice to the fire to separate the grains a bit. But today, we are embracing modernity-- even if it means we have to temporarily return our souffle pan (which also steams the occasional pudding) to its original home.

Moving down the recipe, we're supposed to mix the rice with cheese and "tomato sauce." I had a particularly unwelcome suspicion that tomato sauce is Australian for ketchup, so I picked an Australian supermarket chain to see what turned up on their website.


Thinking that perhaps food definitions have changed a bit since 1935, I decided to see if The Southern Districts Advocate ever had anything to say about "tomato sauce" around the same time they printed today's rice. Sure enough, one edition of "In the Kitchen" was devoted to preserving that year's apparently bountiful tomato harvest. They had a recipe for "A Good Tomato Sauce," which looks like ketchup as we know it today.

GOOD TOMATO SAUCE. 
Twenty-two lbs. tomatoes, 2lbs. onions, 2lbs. apples, 2lbs. sugar, ¾oz whole cloves, 2oz garlic, 1oz allspice, 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper, 2oz whole ginger, ½lb salt, 1½ quarts vinegar. 
Boil tomatoes, onions, apples, garlic three hours, strain, and add other ingredients tied in a bag. Boil for two hours.
"In the Kitchen," The Southern Districts Advocate; Katanning, Western Australia; March 4, 1935; page 5

Note the addition of apples, which I think would be really nice if I ever decide to make my own tomato sauce instead of buying it. But getting back to the recipe we're actually making, I didn't want to make a big pan of rice and ketchup-- period-correct or not. (I would be willing to put something like Miss Leslie's ketchup in our rice, but her recipe was in the wrong hemisphere and already a century out of date.) Instead, I pulled some half-pruned tomatoes out of the back of the fridge and put them in our new toy mini-chopper.


The rest of the recipe was easy enough: stir it together and bake.


This tasted like a rough draft of Spanish rice. (Which doesn't surprise me-- both are mostly rice and tomatoes.) I think it could have used more a lot more cheese. I was hoping for something like macaroni and cheese but with rice. Instead we got rice with a gallingly tasteful seasoning of cheese. I wasn't thrilled, but I did keep the leftovers. 


 

If I revisit this, I'll probably triple the cheese. There's a time and a place for using cheese lightly (or so I've heard), and rice absolutely isn't it.

6 comments:

  1. What difference does one teaspoon of butter make when mixed in with all that rice? I also support your not using ketchup, but then again I don't like it in any form.
    Now to figure out the rice to cheese ratio. Start with 1:1 and tweak from there?

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    1. I don't know, but I wonder the same thing about all those custards that call for, like, one tablespoon of butter.
      And I agree, 1:1 would be a lot better.

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  2. Tangent related to nonstandard ingredients in ketchup:

    For a brief moment of time, one of the grocery stores I visited started selling something called "vegetable ketchup." It contained more veggies than just tomatoes (the labels also showed, like, butternut squash), and purported to be healthier because uuuuuuuh shh. (But it also advertised less sugar, which IS fair.) But it was also, legitimately, very good. It had more depth of flavor than regular ketchup; I genuinely loved it because it tasted good. Alas, like most good new products, it was not to last, and vanished as quickly as it came. RIP nonstandard ketchup.

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    1. Adding extra flavor even if it's not healthier makes me think of how I sometimes use whole wheat flour in brownies. I don't pretend it makes them part of this complete breakfast (unless I just ate, like, nine of them), but it adds a nice depth of flavor to o the chocolate.

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  3. I love that you used up some pruning tomatoes in this! I have a "system" for tomatoes at my house. My partner likes slices of raw tomato on sandwiches-- but tends not to get through an entire carton of Camparis before they start shriveling. I can't stand raw tomatoes, so I can't help out when they're fresh-- but as soon as they start pruning, I cut them up and throw them into whatever I'm cooking because I like the depth of flavor cooked tomatoes add. It's a good way to have raw tomatoes on hand without wasting them. (And I am super-glad you didn't go with ketchup in this, even if it would have been period-appropriate! Extra cheese and maybe some chili powder would be a good way to flavor it up.)

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    Replies
    1. That works out perfectly between the two of you!
      And yep, it needs more cheese. And perhaps a spice kick.

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